Domestic Sunday

Weekends come suddenly everyweek and the plans are always a scramble. This one was no different, and my visit to the weekly tramping club meeting provided no direction other than a possible easy day hike saturday in wet rainy weather. the same weather seemed to be all about the island and I had no desire to attempt to hitch the long road back north to sunny mountains. So I made no plans, went climbing with James in the porthills instead. kinda off day with our wall constantly confounding us, leading both of us to take wingers. Later we had some nice climbs though it was windy and sometimes felt as if we were gona get blown off the face.

I recall the events of sunday proper beginning in paragraph five if your pressed for time, otherwise - as all sundays do, this one began on a saturday. A lazy, uncommitted, uneventful saturday evening, on my own, eating dinner and contemplating my studies. Satisfied and full on the flattie's spaghetti sauce I was restless and the cheap rhubarb and other fruits I had sitting around hung in my mind. At Braeden's urging I gave in and whipped up a pear rhubarb crumble. As I put it in the oven Elizabeth responded to my query regarding a sunday trip to castle hill: "yup we're going, I wana leave around 8:30 and you can stay here or we can pick you up in the morning." I had a crumble in the oven so couldn't head over their just yet, but I replied that I'd check if people were still awake when my crumble was done and then maybe head over. At the prospect of crumble the response was: "yes, we will definitely be up! :-) ." Suddenly I was energized with purpose: deliver a crumble to friends.

Throw things in a bag for climbing at castle hill the next day, some other treats, and my hard drive of music and movies. I removed the crumble and delivered a large portion to Braeden to share ("three spoons? oh thanks nick I always wanted three spoons for my crumble." "I know you get over excited and eat the spoons sometimes so I put some extras in," I replied"). Then I carefully packaged it in my puffy jacket and placed it into my bag before grabbing by bicycle to race the 12k in nick style, making every light along the way!

Saddly Elizabeth was, as I had theorized, asleep on the couch. But Abby and Morten were chatt'n away and welcoming as ever. Liz did wake up, the crumbled was unveiled still steaming and sweet smelling and yoghurt was found. We all proceeded to nomnom on the scrumptious midnight snack. Tonight was the night we would loose an hour for daylight savings humdrum so movie thoughts were quickly rejected, especially once I realized my hard drive had not made it into my bag. The full tummy hilarity's subsided and people began to drop off. Liz found the couch and my lap amazingly comfortable. The couch alone was apparently more cozy than the bed downstairs even once I had extracted my no longer circulating limbs from under her. Thinking it silly, and smiling I sat down to do a bit of studying. Then Rosa woke downstairs and made sounds of distress. Those sounds only got worse when I went down to comfort her, and not wanting them to get too shrill I aroused mum who had quick success in easing Rosa back to sleep. The night was late, the moon was high, time had jumped and yet everything was the same, just now all of us were asleep.

Morning came to groggy faces, sleep deprived we slept through the alarms we forgot to set the night before. Our friends in lincoln were almost all assembled and ready to go to castle hill by the time liz had showered and I had prepared crepes n compote. When we heard no one in lincoln was needing our assistance to get to castle hill our motivation to drive the distance faded and the urge to soak in sunshine and catch some catnaps kept us from acting on our urges to travel.

With warm crepes wrapped around compote - leaving sticky fingers and smiles - we began sunday. The sweet smelling rhubarb accenting the primarily strawberry mash that filled the soft tortillas laced with bits of lemon, and lingered in the lounge long after they had settled in our tummies. There had been no spectacular sunrise, but the sun was high, the weather warm and a refreshing wind was blowing. We made our way around the house from sunspot to sunspot. From soft carpets, to cold glass. Onto soft wood, resting heads on shoulder, lying in the grass and smelling the fresh wetness of the evening's dew. Liz dozed as I tried to keep Rosa occupied and off her mum. Rosa summoned us all to sit on cushions that were a car and took us for a drive. A silent one because Rosa shushed Liz's and my boisterous singing of wheels on the bus go round and round. Lions were spotted en mass of course and chased us out of the car. Later when more lions were spotted I changed the theme. When using long straws to go fishing off the cushions that were now a boat I became a sea-lion when Rosa conjured up a lion. I dont think she quite understood what a kind of blubbery creature I was, but was entertained by my flopping and odd *roughing* noises non the less.

I decided on a shower. When I got out Rosa found all my scratches from bush and climbing adventures and proceeded to apply many plasters. Even as I write they still cover me as I am afraid of the pain that comes with removing plasters from hairy places. I remained in my towel, and Rosa seemed determined to remain nudiescaboody (a term my cousins and I used but which I have no idea how to spell) for the day and refused clothes. Plasters reminded me of my aches and pains. I retrieved some frozen fruit and a towel to ice my bothersome ankles. Rosa I think imitated me when she had me wrap some toilet paper around her arm as a bandage.

That 3 year old little girl has a little red push bike that she enjoys riding, and we went down the driveway to the quite street to ride around. It Reminded me of my bicycling on a wooden deck long ago. I kept her from zooming off down the hill by pushing her up and around on the culdesac. Walking back up the driveway we picked some flowers for mum and then discovered a secret path. So I picked up the barefoot Rosa and off through the woods we went on a little adventure. dodging branches and vines, I'd dip Rosa close to the flowers and delicately we would tiptoe around trees growing on the path. We came to thrones in the jungle, surrounded by light foliage, and enjoyed spotty sunlight. Still holding Rosa close to keep her warm in the shade and wind. She spotted a cool stick (when she says stick it sounds like pen) and used it to clean the armrests. Then we hollowed out the middle of the stick and stuck a flower in it. "oh! a lion!" Rosa spotted lions, I beat some of them off but then had to weave my way back along the trail to escape them. When we were back on the driveway I picked some interesting yellow blossoms off a tree. The blossoms swirling on the pavement became lions and we chased them off, or blew them up in the air to watch them drift away. We went back down the trail a few more times before returning up the driveway with the bike and some more flowers.

In the house rosa opted to ware a red princes dress for a time and we quietly prepared the flowers in vases and then presented them to Liz at her computer. "Ah, Tak." Then some skyping with family, and Rosa diving off the couch onto the big red beanbag with many a hard whomp. One whomp may or may not have been a bit too hard an impact but without crying and just a bit'a pouting Rosa wanted some ice. Rosa liked the way I had tied a towel around my knee to hold the ice in place earlier and had me fix her up the same way. Soon things were " aw bettah." Lions were spotted but Pete the talking hand puppet parrot chased them off. until Pete got caught and then the kick boxing kangaroo came in with her joey and beat off the lions. Then they both got their feet eaten by lions and Rosa had to rescue them!

We prepared some lunch snacks: buttered toast for rosa, odd sandwiches of sprouts, humus, tomatoes, butter, compote, this and that... and the last of the crumble. After that Rosa had to be chased around the garden for a bit by us lions trying to catch and gobble her up! With Liz as the lion we ran and hid in the bathroom. But the lion didn't come to get us, so we sneaked out quietly - only to have the lion JUMP out at us and send us SHRIEKING! back to the bathroom closet! Rosa and I made a few more attempts that always ended in shrieking giggles as we ran back into hiding. Then I became the lion and surprised them a few times before deftly maneuvering to chase them upstairs. Then no one was a lion and Rosa shed her red dress to devour two large apple icepops without making a mess.

And somewhere in between Rosa thoroughly buckled up my back pack and put it on. she looked like a turtle!

Rosa and I again made our way outside, following Liz as she explored the photographic possibilities the flowering garden inspired. Large white wrapped up blossomes didn't interest rosa who opted for More biking instead. doing so we discovered odd hard fruit like blossoms perfect for throwing. We found a ball and kicked that around for a while starting on the terrace behind the house and ending up on the street below. Very interesting to watch Rosa follow and respond to the ball; kicking it, or trapping it awkwardly to then pick it up and throw it. I played warden and kept the ball from rolling too far down the driveway, but I think Rosa learned many interesting things watching the ball move on the incline. And later when I bounced it up and down the stairs, sometimes bouncing over her, sometimes stopping on the step before her, and sometimes bouncing between outstretched hands and off her head. Rosa was slowing down, the sun was getting behind the hill and I think her birthday suit was a bit cold. But she still wanted to be outside, so she picked the last of the tulips in the front bed.

Standing on the bench of the lower terrace, which had some sunlight, we reenergized. Then warmed into movement and began to dance around. A coffee table was our center and In an odd ritual involving the waving of a small batton we orbited around. Stuttering in halting motions, shaking arms and uttering odd grunty-whiny chants. Putting the batons down - pausing to open eyes clearly and observe each other soft smiles stretching cheeks - then picking them up and resuming. Occasionally we would flop down on the ground, sitting or on our backs, then hop up to keep shuffle-chanting. We moved back onto the bench that serves as railing about the terrace to soak in some of the last rays of sun. And rosa gathered some rounded river rocks and I naturally began to stack and sculpt with those she brought to the table. My balanced creations were admired, but had to be moved to a frisbee and were destroyed in the process, but Rosa was confident I could remake them.

And it was time to sleep a bit. Rosa helped me carry out her little mattress, then helped me retrieve the larger single so that I would have a place to rest too. But the sleep was short lived as lions soon snuck up and had to be chased off. The ball reappeared with Morten who told us dinner would be ready soon. I threw the ball up onto the roof to watch it roll down. Then somehow Rosa needed to be thrown up there - so I picked Rosa up and twirled her about, tossed her up and then flopped down on the mattresses to rest my arms. I promised Rosa three more tosses and after the last one twirled and flew her around and upstairs to dinner and hugs from mum.

Dinner of mashed potatoes and a interesting tomato carrot bean something dish which was tasty. Also a bit of sauerkraut that they made and had been ripening for a few months, I of course didn't much care for it. full bellies conceeded to chores, and we all danced each pirouetting and bowing to the rythms as I cleaned up the kitchen and the others cleaned up the lounge. They then set up an amazingly comfy space to watch movies using mattresses, pillows, couch cushions, duvets and blankets. I got some popcorn ready and we dimmed the lights for a feature film! Love Actually was chosen, and Abby was distracted from getting her studing done. After the movie, during which Rosa fell asleep full on dinner, popcorn, and milk, Liz in her usual 'I don't feel like moving downstairs' fashion decided to stay put in the nest of pillows blankets and such. Even with the heat pump and the day's summer heat it got cold in the night, leading me to grab an extra blanket from downstairs. Something was bothering Rosa and she slept fitfully. And with the time change I realized a bit late that the additional light filtering through the curtains was sun and not just the strong moon. So ended a sunday of Being - with a kiss for sleeping Liz and a murmured salutation as farewell, I sped off on my bicycle into the dawn light.

Ciao

South Again

While busily enjoying the earthquake serenity and aftermath I learned that uni had been closed. Being on break I suddenly had an extra week to go adventure! James had mentioned doing the routburn at this time of year, and I knew he was going to the Invercargill area in Southland. A few quick texts and plans were laid to drive south and hit the routburn on the way back. I sent a few more texts to see if any friends wanted to join us. A few hours before departure I managed to convince Juli (from quail island) to join us.

I quickly packed my thing last minute on monday. And parting with Elizabeth, Rosa and the lambs, throwing a quick "see ya later" to the flatties, set off in Jame's Chariot to pick up Juli and we were off.

HOW

South from Christchurch past the boring not quite farmland and busy roads. Four hours later near Dunedin we pulled off at Moaraki Boulders. Almost perfectly spherical boulders litter the beach. Just shorter than a man and with a pockmarked exterior, kinda like basalt, they sit on the beach and are bathed at high tide. coming at low tide and with the light fading we were disappointed to have no sunset wonders in the thick clouds above and, while awed, unable to fully appreciate and absorb the wonder of it all. I got into it, literally, a bit more than the others though!

With the weather unpromising we decided to press on with the driving rather than wait around as we had planned for sunset photography at the boulders. Into Dunedin proper, a stop for some burgers, venison burgers, and kumera (sweet potato) chips (fries). More driving! we stopped for the night at a little rest stop where someone once had a farmstead, now just a muddy field, and a boulder with a plaque. The ground was wet, James lent me his bedroll and I enjoyed the tent while James and Juli flattened the seats and slept in the car. Next day saw our arrival in Tautapere, past Invercargill, near the southern extremity of the south island. A small sleepy town with one main street on which a few coffee shops, a tiny library, a toy shop, a general store, butcher, and a museum sit.

The museum boasts coffee so we go there first. But they are closed today, not serving, as they need to clean everything in preparation for a training. The place had 2 generations from 2 families worth of things. Cooking supplies, pots, pans, stoves, pianos, wedding dresses, hand mixers, scales, china, furniture... everything! very nice people there held us for a brief conversation. Then we discovered their homemade jams and Juli and I each bought some pure fruit and sugar homemade jam! she blackberry, me raspberry. James went off to his interview while I pretended to walk the track he was applying to lead.

Then off to Milford! Well we stop in Te Anau for dinner: a decent pizza, but with anchovies instead of artichoke, YUK! Then we drive up the Milford road to Deer Flats where I again sleep in the tent. Cloudy skies again so I dont bother staying up looking for stars but go strait to sleep. The morning bring clearing low clouds hugging peaks and a rainbow dancing in the water of the river. The first of many rainbows!

To the trail! and saying hi to the maintenance crew prepping to do some work on a small landslide over the trail we started out on the routburn Track

HOW!

we started with a rather quick pace, gently graded switchbacks cutting up the steep granite walls. And around us all is lush. James hops into guide mode a bit as he is personally testing his knowledge to see what plants he still has to learn to identify. But he points here and there and our progress is slowed as we, Juli especially, preoccupy ourselves with trying to remember them all. There were many ferns: hen and chicken fern, prince of whales fern, hounds tung, black fern, creek fern, crown fern; plus there were trees, caprosmas ,and four leafed hebes. I learned alot, but have promptly forgotten/jumbled it all up again.

We made a quick side trip to a key summit for some views. A key summit is one where the waters flow to three different coasts, here they went down the hollyford valley to the west coast, and then some other rivers to the south and east coasts =D. Here we poked above treeline to see sphagnum mosses surrounding green brown tarns along with the more rugged varieties of hebe. Scampering on rocks we lazily took in the amazing views of snow capped mountains under the thinning clouds and clear blue skies of sunshine!

Back on the trail we passed some waterfalls and drank our fill, then filled our bottles. Getting on midday we chose a nice sunny patch of trail to claim our own and eat at. Lunch today was a bit different for me. My ryevita of course was key, but on it today was salami, red onion, hummus, and tomato. mmm yummy twas. and the spot we chose ideal. Nice moss to either side for our bums and a trickle of water beside the trail added to the ambiance of dancing sunlight from branches in the breez and the singing of birds in the trees. But there was more trail to follow, majestic corridors to walk and more water to see falling.

A major water fall was the next arrival. we saw it from afar, then beat off the bush to a smaller one with a rainbow. I ran - splashing - down the stream bed to rejoin the trail. Then we were at the main event Earland Falls, and in an avalanche path - but we were more interested in scrambling over boulders to get to the falls than past them. Sweet massive chunks of granite litter a jumble of pools and streams before a missive cliff with cascades of water crashing from a above. From 30 meters away you can feel the mist dusting your face and getting closer all sounds merge into the roar. I scampered over the swetting rocks and, pausing - drawing up the hood of my rain jacket, ducked under a cascade to an alcove behind. The roar was engaging all was slightly dripping. A vapor saturated wind generated by the falls eddied into and through my jacket - I felt it reverberate deep within me. The streams of water before me formed dynamic curtains - frames to the clouds

and peaks across the valley. I soon jumped out and over the boulders once again, turning here and there to drink from the air and gape up the rock. The others were on a bridge, admiring from the trail. I spotted a sweet rainbow and another cool vantage and bouldered up on slippery holds to the top of a massive boulder. From there I caught the rainbow, and again took it all in. The views across the valley were sweet, but the falls got the most attention.

We sat in a low spot with the stream trickling near. talking slow, looking at the sun, hear the falls and smiling. We crossed a more obvious, but very dry, avalanche path that had about 20 years of regrowth on it. Then looking from another avalanche path we paused briefly to capture a large tarn nestled in a meadow of sorts. And above it the clouds and a pointed peak. James and I discussed the lighting and photographic technique (his shot's better!). Our botany lessons continued. Each of us testing our knowledge: julie and I attempting to internalize it all. The next addition to our knowledge was the dainty pineapple plant. maybe not so dainty. It has stiff and spiky looking leaves. But it sits out from the main plant a

bit and reminds me both of pineapple and of spider plants. (photo courtesy of Juli)The track was still in the well lit native bush, and still on steep slopes, but well made and gently graded. Sun still cam through in beams, and the path moved up and down over the slight ridges meandering down the steep slopes.

I fell behind a bit as I took in it all, and caught up to them at a bridge. They moved on and I looked around. And I realized that below the bridge was a massive boulder wedged between two cliffs. The stream passed down the slope, cascading and bouncing between mosses and stones as all the rest. But then passed down out of site before the large boulder. I looked up to share my amazement with the others but they had passed over another bump in the path. I was wide eyed and eager to explore the boulder below and examine how the water fell behind it, where it went. The sides of the stream had no good viewing angles, so I dropped my pack and scrambled down the thick slope (some corner of my mind recalled the ridge-line of mt pfief). Below the stream widened and flowed on a few routs, but i had come out below the boulder and need to to continue upstream to come beneath it. My that stream was amazing! The light then was a perfect balance of glittering rays, and the first pool on the stream caught them perfectly. Caught them and threw them up on the underside of a good sized boulder, looking like a perfect summer swimming hole. The rest of the stream

contained wonders all along it as well. A perfect fern, a sweet log with water running along it, a rocky sand bar here, moss there, dust motes in the sun, another boulder... Its almost a miracle that I made it back out from that breathing abode. I did make it under the boulder between the cliffs. Well, not directly under as there was a pool there and getting wet was for sunday. But I pressed a against a moist moss wall and smiled at another rainbow. It sat in the mist. The mist came from under the boulder, from the semi darkness of glittery mist that sat wedged, looking like an egg, between the cliffs. ahh, simply to breath fresh air and watch and touch and smell.

The final destination of the evening wasn't far off. I acctually didnt rejoin the others until we reached Mckensie hut, beside Mckensie Lake, beneath Mt Alice. I droped my thigns in the hut and went to find the others. I didnt see them by the lake, and thought I would save the hike to the end of the lake and hanging valley for later. Instead I did a short boulder problem and at the top got out my tools and wrote a post card to nick. Twas your birthday and I had no phone to call you! I sketched some more, of alice and the surrounding ridges. James returned and retired with a headache.

looking up mckensie valley

Juli and I headed off to see if there were any west facing vantages for the sunset. The valley flowed to the south and a little west, so we hoped to get on a ridge nearby. We wove through terminal moraine boulders, through some forest, and found the trail. Juli had a bad knee and didn't want to go far. when the trail suddenly started climbing I shot as chipmunks are wont to do. Up, up, through the switchbacks, into moss that whirred by. But no vantages appeared, nor were any seen when I gingerly balanced over a mossy log to the top of a boulder. What a

crazy place! The boulder had a good 50-90 cm off moss and dirt built up and a tangle of roots all over it. Very cool growth, and the downed tree log I had crossed had many moss covered relatives. I balanced my way down and skipped down the steps to meet Juli before she got too far. We descended to the base and then worked our way along the base of a boulder and into a nice and mossy region. I could have, and maybe did, find a spot to sleep on moss, but I preferred the mossy courtyard of snakeskin-saddle. We lay there and enjoyed, A rifleman bird came within 50cm of me as I lay quite still. No sunset, but still nice.

In the fading light we returned to the lack and made our way to its lowest end. There was a plethora of flat stones and I spent most of the time skipping them. I also stood on rocks in the middle of that little cove and just enjoyed the stillness of the place and some soft purples in the sky behind Mt Alice. Returning to the hut with nightfall we found a napping James. We gathered some sticks for the fire and started on dinner. The wood stove there was slow to light and didn't effectively warm the large - empty - space. Leftover lentils with some rice was an okay dinner, and the chocolate was yummy. James was feeling much better, and we ventured back to the bottom of the lake to shoot some star trails. Sitting enjoying the sky and trying not to chill we waited 30, then 40 minutes for the shots of Alice. Unfortunately the lens fogged up.

Morning, breakfast chopping fruit into musli while sitting perched on a rock in the still water of the lake. Julie brought some oatmeal as well, and her jelly. I indulged and fortified my breki with some jelly on rye. The water was tempting and I wandered along the shore of an island like peninsula that stretches towards Mt. Alice and breaks up the end of the lake into two entities. Over boulders, along rocky shore, the breeze. A hopping balance on points of rock in the water to go around another boulder. Through the cleft between the two halves of a split boulder. on the islands spit I stripped and refused. I wandered into the woods and sat on soft mosses. I went back and stepped, ouch ouch, with bear feet on the rock chips. toe in the water, yes - it's cold. skip some stones. Lying on a boulder, feeling the chill breeze wrap about me, soaking in sun with my entirety. Then, ok, step... oh chill. step... oh chilly. and in! ah whoop! ah ah! ohyea! the ice waters of POLAR BEAR! GOOD MORNING, no word of the day today, sorry. But yea dat feels good! cold but sweet and soft and cleansing. I dried in the sun and we set off from the hut with me absolutely beaming.

We were all happy and while we enjoyed the moss grown forest that had more moss than snakeskin-saddle. we had more fun on the sunny switchbacks looking down on the lake, remembering the already not too distant pleasures. And contemplating other sweet swimming spots on the lakes far end. We also found the first snow! Which occasioned snowballs as we passed old avalanche debris. Switchbacks lead us back and forth above the lake, and soon we were almost exclusively on the snow. The boot packing became was getting snow in our shoes and wearied us slightly, but our moods were too positive to be anything but a little sad when we passed over the ridge and said farewell to the majestic Mt Alice.

With Alice out of sight we were crossing over the ridgeline and looking again into the Hollyford Valley. James wanted to try and get pictures of a tarn and we all needed some snacks. But I ran off to a little roll of the ridgeline and did head stands. Doing headstands when 800m (2400ft) above a valley floor and on a ridgeline is hard. Especially with the wide open sky above, you feel extra unstable and my feet flailed wildly. There was a cool frozen tarn up there too. We now traversed for a while, enjoying unrestricted views of the jagged peaks and ridgelines across the valley. I keenly remember a few very sunny basins, a consistent and large snow slope, the entrance to a hanging valley, and one especially jagged ridgeline there. One thing that was obstructed was the Mt Tutoko, whose location we guessed but were never able to confirm. we crossed some more sweet

streams rushing raucously down and over sweet boulders to the trees and valley below. The plants here were Hebe's, grasses, and tussock. There was also a surprising number of grasshoppers on the trail. I snagged the first one and tried to have it jump on James, but he was kinda mellow. So I held him and made funny faces instead. The junction with deadman's track was a nice vantage. And all the while the sun was bright and the cumulous kept to the ragged ridges.

Soon we were back on some snow and making out way up to the saddle. We waved goodbye to the Hollyford track, to the short line of ocean and cloud to which it led. stomping, getting wet, cold feet. we went up some stairs and cleared them of snow (next group to go should have a clear path!) in the pass we stopped to lube up for protectiong

from the sun. Another half a kilometer on and we were at Harris Saddle Shelter. There we unloaded and ate lunch. a feast of pastrami and onion, and tomatoes, and hard boiled eggs, and other yummy sandwhich makings. We enjoyed final views of those jagged peaks of the Darrens. A Kea circled above, but no second one appeared to steal our food or cameras. The saddle itself had cool conicle summits on either side and It would have been nice to take the time and climb around them. We pressed on between them instead, bootpacking and breaking through to our thighs on occasion, other times staying on the hard top layer.

The true pass revealed a new world. The Immediate Mountains were still the same course jagged granit. And nestled below us was a large ice bound lake. The lakes drainage, some kilometers right of us, broke up into the mountains in a series of frozen waterfalls on dark -snow dusted - cliffs. Ice and snow was this world, and in time came some clouds to mute the contrast and increase that raw factor. Our toes tingled more and we kept moving, but with reluctance. Over some tussock hills of snow, along a narrow cliff edge, then crossing some avalanche paths. We had one section where I got a nice but slide going on the back of my pack. Another where we all just jumped off into the deep snow below and then struggled to dig our limbs out. A stream melts though the snow once. But for a time all is white and we stare at the snow covered rock still subdued by clouds which swirl about the pinnacles. The end of the lake is in view, it births a river which flows through a series of hanging valleys. And our way shows more tussock, and we can even make out the track poking out of the snow here and there.

Leaving snow line we pass the "end of avalanche risk area" sign and are greeted by a sweet boulder. I jump out of my pack and boulder up without pause, and soon james joins me to way goodbye to the frozen lake and take in the valley below and peaks around with cloud above. A sweet perch, and the photo credit for this one goes to Juli. The down climb was wetter and required slightly more care. But then we were back on the track which actually retained snow for a bit longer than the tussock.. soon enough it was gone. We did not move in to folow the river as I thought we would but continued to wrap around the valley, traversing at a gentile

grade. We passed some more cool boulders and then a small boulder leaning against a far larger one forms the roof of a tunnel for the track! I was excited and ran down swinging my legs and arms in a goofy manner to get under it. and the on the other-side of this boulder tunnel I found some rounded pebbles and made a cairn. We still didn't join the river. But we came down onto the flats and crossed a stream. Lookin towards the river we caught glimpses of waterfalls. I thought I was missing out but little did I know...

A series of large and powerful waterfalls awaited us when at last we joined the river above waterfall hut. We descended to a frequented perch to take pictures of one of the falls. I wanted more and delicately stepped my way across the river onto slick rock. The to the waterfall James was shooting. It fell narrowly into a neat pool, but the flow was swift in leaving it. To get out of the shot I crawled into a little cave, crevice next to the fall and lay there in my green jacket like another piece of moss. A tight fit, but cool to be a in a womb of the earth, even if it was a cold rather than a warm wet. I crawled out, BIRTH! and looked for a route up above the fall. I knew I was on an island and wanted to see the upper falls from it's tip. The ascent was touchy, on loose steep scrub and mossy wet rock faces. but I was up, and the falls were cool. but their memory dwindles as I think of the subsequent set of falls. I looked for an alternate route down but the way up was the best so I carefully down-climbed and moved over the rushing river from slippery bank to slick rock to slippery bank. We moved on to another photo-spot where I sketched and then stood and quickly relived my stint of roaming and climbing on the island that was before me .

First falls on left. center - cliff band above trees is what I climbed to be on the 'island' (photo by Juli)

Then it was down into the river itself, into it's gorge like depths, walking under vertical banks, jumping from rock to rock. I made my way up stream to a third waterfall that jetted down from a spot of light. Another small one rained down the overhanging bank. I waded into the water to get closer and drank the cool misty air.

...

I returned, wading, down the river. then around a large boulder continued down the river to explore. I was enthralled, excited, awed, in love, slightly scared, and eager to take in more. I loved the sensation of water round my feet and legs and cared not that an hour prior my toes had been completely numbed by the snow. into the water, out onto boulders, stepping across the main flow. Watching cascades, boils, eddies, dragging feet and hands through flows to feel it. Plunging hands into the water to pull out rounded rocks of colors and shapes of beauty and practicality: a spoon, an oval, banded, green, grey, quartz. Another waterfall and I stop thigh deep in the water behind a rock. The waters pour over and continue their jostled journey. I see no watery route down, so I turn back and take another way up the flows, seeing how it flows under boulders, and rushes between constrictions. coming out of the water i bring with me tokens of the journey and slowly return up the bank and make the last few hundred yards to the beautifully placed waterfall hut and the friends within.

It is perched on stilts, just barely under the treetops so one can see way down valley to a new mountain range - in looks akin to the flat topped southern colorado mountains. We have an adventure to the fancy lodge in search of fire wood. but find none. so we get some wet things out of the woods. We find some logs as well but they are green, the woodshed was empty so we made due. Fire was even slower tonight. We pulled some mattresses from the bunk room and laid them before the fire place. Diner was noodles and veggies with a honey sauce - yummy. Played some cards and fiddled with the fire. James and I made another long exposure from the deck, but the camera battery died so we didn't find out if worked. Juli, took the center spot to steal warmth from James and I in our puffy down bags. We all rose early and sat on the porch in our sleeping bags enjoying some pinks in the clouds and peaks down valley to the east.

sleepingbag sunrise (photo by Juli)

An easy final day out. All down hill and graded. I decided not to take advantage of the many showers provided by the waterfalls, and the others weren't keen, which meant an earlier start. Very nice, pleasant bush. The track stayed up a bit from the river as we traversed down valley. James Identified the various types of beech trees: hard beech, red beech, silver beech, mountain beech... but I've forgotten them now. Also finally saw a plant I had been very good at identifying the first day, but which julie had not yet seen, and now I cant remember it's name at all! One bridge was in shambles, attacked by an avalanche of water, trees and rocks, but the creek below easily crossed. We crossed more bridges as we came to the valley bottom. The bush became more open with wonderful mosses absorbing sunlight in amoebic arrays.

We were in another hanging valley, and the track traversed again as the river crashed into gorge littered with boulders and tree trunks. We crossed a small side creek that carved the bedrock wonderfully. Anchores could be seen in the swirling waters that hinted at the guided canyoneering tours that go down the creek. We passed on along the trail, and shortly passed a small group of three out for a day walk. James hurried ahead to make the end of the trail and the shelter with its restroom. Juli and I took a more leisurely pace, not pushing her injured knee. The shelter was abandoned, just one car in the lot, no hope of a ride into civilization. SO we continued walking along the road. The river joined another valley and larger flows, spreading out as braided rivers do, tumbling over the rounded rocks. We passed farms, a few cars passed us going the wrong way. One rushed by us without sparing us a glance. We saw a cow giving birth. We reached a sealed road, crossed a oneway bride on foot.

Julie stopped to tie her shoe, and a car came by and we got a ride after marching an extra 10km. We stopped at the head of lake wakatipu for some coffee and Juli bought a possum tail and tried her first L n P. Continuing on, our ride got a flat tire. Things seemed to go alright, and our driver was glad to have the help, but then the spare had a key nut on it that wouldn't come off. We flagged down another vehicle. In typical do it yourself fashion we tried all sorts of crazy methods but eventually resorted to hammering it off and sheering the bolt. The car drove fine after that and we made it to Queenstown. But it was now late in the day and we were unable to get a ride to Te-Anau. We walked another 7km back into town, a km or two out Juli manadged to flag down a ride, and the car behind them was tying to pull them over so we facilitated a funny reunion. Wonderful people told us of a ugandan choir performing at the church that evening. We settled into Juli's friend's aunt's Hotel for a very discounted rate, then went to town for dinner (mmm sovlaki). The choir was fine, and it was good to talk to the others for a bit. The woman was pregnant and going to do a water birth in a yurt soon, she had also studied some at naropa. I also talked to the driver of the children's tour bus. The next day we waited along time on the road but did manage to get to Te-Anau. One ride was with a big happy doug which enjoyed my scratching. In Te-Anau I went to doc to tell them we had survived the routburn while Juli and James hitched on to fetch the car. I then went to the beach and flew my kite, had some lunch and made some sculptures.

Some hitching moments courtesy of Juli

The drive home was long. Juli dozed off for a bit and then when she woke up was a bit wired and crazy. We arrived before midnight and parted ways, tired but content.

Highlights

I'm rather annoyed that the photo compression software used by google/blogger is cutting out my highlight detail... I work hard ot get that detail in and t means you folks dont get to see the subtle cloud and snow detail in my photos... alas such is life.

in other news I just spent 2 hours trying to do something in photoshop... didnt work.

Disasters

Returning from my frivolous excursion down south I learned of the wildfire near Boulder. my thoughts, hopes, and love goes out to all those involved. Browsing around I have found a few videos which bring out some of the dangerous beauty of nature's whims.

Now looking at the happenings of Christchurch I have two, one I found to be rather enlightening as it shows the actual faultline and the lateral movement of the earth during our Earthquake.

this second reveals the variety of effects the Earthquake had on christchurch, though I my self have seen very little of the rubble

I hope you can enjoy. While these things scare me in many ways I was also rather comforted and glad to return to christchurch yesterday and feel again some of the tremors which still rock the place. It reminds us that the mother is there holding and molding us.

destruction?

greetings all. As some many or all of you may know, Christchurch recently experienced an earthquake. (I'm fine) . The rattling started about 4:30 am.

I was awakened by rumblings and, disgruntled and sleepy, thought: 'who the hell is making such a raucous, at this hour!" Awakening more and staggering off of the cushions that were my bed: "thats gota be alot of people, or rosa's turned into a giant..." The windows rattled and doors shook as I staggered to the window to look outside: "cant be people. Gusts of wind maybe?" My hand just drawing back the curtains my mind has finally kicked into gear: "Oh! must be an earthquake, I should go stand in a doorframe." And turning from the window saw a flash of light.

I realized it was an earthquake. Having done I rather calmly made my way to the nearest doorway into the hall, though I staggered slightly on the vibrating floor. Once in the door I relaxed significantly, my mind was comfortable and no longer cranking. I enjoyed the ride really, and as it faded walked out and surprised my hosts. One hadn't realized I was staying the night so was rather a bit more surprised to see me in the hall. Immediately after the first strike several after shocks shook the house and I darted back under my doorframe. Then things seemed to have settled so I opened the door onto the patio.

Behold a red-orange moon, quarter crescent, rising over the hill. A black void stretching through most of christchurch, with just a few strips of lights towards the distance. The stars, that I had strained to see earlier, shining bright above. And flashing in the darkness bellow, alarms blaring the cars protested their interrupted slumber. Beams of light, thrown by torches, flew across walls, buildings, and trees as people emerged from their abodes to explore and check the damage. which, locally at least, can be summed up with: "everything's under control. Situation normal. Uh, we had a slight weapons malfunction, but uh... everything's perfectly all right now. We're fine. We're all fine here now, thank you. How are you?" The lights were out and we lost a bottle of wine, Which I first smelled, and then stepped into, as I was looking in the closet for some milk.

Liz came up with rosa, and we watched the stars and wandering beams of light for a while before settling down to sleep the rest of the morning away. Sleeping didn't work too well, tremors kept occurring which rattled the room. While we didn't feel too pressed to get out again thereafter some made us nervous.

Morning came and we found a beautiful day, not a cloud in the sky. No disaster to be seen around (other than broken glass in the kitchen). The only clue to the nights events were the continued tremors and no power. We cooked on a gas camping stove, and went up to the terrace to overlook the city from the hills of cashmere and enjoy the sun.

Abby and Morten went for a bike into the city. They returned with discounted breads, confections, and tales of the city. At right is a Morten's reaction to the destruction he found (or caused?) on one corner. Older brick constructions suffered most: loosing bricks, and dropping chimneys, while other buildings lost gutters and signs. But we enjoyed the garden and out of the mild destruction decided to sew knew life and planted some seeds in the garden. Space was cleared for spinach, lettuce, rocket, and corriander, dirtying our hands and fingernails. The power returned so we had tea and toast for lunch. We ran around the garden pretending to be lions, chasing and being chased by rosa.

On such a gorgeous day a trip to the beach was in order! We sallied up and drove through town. Some roads were closed and flooded or with cracks and silt in the gutters.

But we got to the beach and enjoyed it's marvels. We ran into the sea, a freezing cold sea that wrenched the breath away. Under water one had no sense other than urgency. But above the waves one could enjoy, and splash quite happily and warmly in the sun, while the feet slowly numbed in the sea. I dug holes in the sand seeking crabs, only to find odd cavities and then a sand worm with what seemed many many legs. I drew in the sand. Rosa ran hither and thither, placed mud on my feet, splashed and sat in my sand pits. Abby and Morten gathered clams to make a yummy dinner. All this Elizabeth recorded with her camera.

In the end, as the sun sets, the world seems fine. A 7.4 earthquake, later downgraded to a 7.1, and tremors sometimes over 5 in magnitude seems to have little affected life. But the center of town is said to be more impacted, and I'm sure CNN has all hell broken loose. Here at home we boild our water for three minutes just to be sure. 38 hrs later the tremors still occur. and now I sleep.

Road Trip

There were tentative plans to go down to wanaka on a bit of a road trip. Elizabeth had the idea, there were a few maybes and i was keen to join her and Rosa, her three year old daughter. I went on my ski journey, my mt ignorent trip, and then returning went over to firm up the plans. But her car was acting up. Having battery problems, then starter problems and so I just enjoyed some good food and and a movie.

James, a kiwi bloke I met through couch surfing, was keen to meet up for some climbing and was going to join us in our road trip. Hearing that car one was out of action he said we could take his car (I didnt know he had a car until then). Elizabeth needed to fix her vehicle, but james and I were itchin to catch some good weather. I threw things together, grabbed some snacks and we stated out

HOW!

Through christchurch and the unpleasant crowded, semi farms to the southwest along the canterbury plain. onto the backroads to avoid traffic, curving now and then but strait as an arrow towards the ever larger southern alps. Through geraldien, home of Barker's Jelly (who make a redcurrent jam at times which I am still trying to find in stores). The sky was basted in clouds which coalesced along the mountains but seemed too thin as we went. We stopped on lake Tekapo, and the

church of the good shepherd. The Church is perched on a little peninsula and the front of the church overlooks this gorgeous lake and the mountains at it's head. Onwards in the car. my nose pressed to the glass taking in sights soon to feel familiar. Pie and a quich to refuel, in a sleepy feeling town. Then we stop in the middle of the road. the hills around look like tinder ready to burn. soft sugar lumps in a desert that you know is dry but cant quite believe. A fact made harder to believe by the slightly dusted peak seen through a valley.

Eventually we arrive and there we set up tent in the car head lamps. And it's product promotion time! The best outdoor brand: fairy down, now a memory after reaching too high and soling out to krapmandu. High ISO, no tripod so jerry rigging with string and branches and twigs. We contemplate other nights that might have stars and consider the rushing river we hear but cannot see frothing over rocks. Might it flood in the night? na ,no rain forecasted: should be good aye!

The day brings sunshine and it's off to the crags! down along the lake of wanaka, around to hospital flats. Here sick horses were once nursed back to health, now a nice farmer allows folks across his land to the schisty rocks. Sun blazing we rock up some 18s, 17s and 19s. Sweet as trad in a corner, a cool overhang, and odd crimpy features. Then got buggered by a 20: odd crack that ate my hand for a solid 3 minutes, that wouldn't hold a ring lock, that taunted us with sharp crimps. I finally made some progress and got up over the roof to top out. But it took many falls, flails, blood and man grunts. James never quite managed it so we quite for a snack and moved over to the tombstone. There the weather suddenly turned, sunshine that had kept us perfectly toasted was gone and then it started spitting on us. Just get up one and then the rocks too sweaty to continue to so we fool around on some boulders before we decide to call it quites and head back into Wanaka to eat (spicy indian!) and call in for the night.

The morning dawns misty. Indecisive and vague we go to the crags hoping for sunshine. And who should be there at the parking lot? It's Elizabeth!

the car was fixed and she decided to come south as well! We hope for the rocks to be dry and say see ya later as we go to explore. Across the valley is Diamond Craig and many other interesting - wet - climbs. looking down from diamond craig a stream flows by a massive boulder covered in moss in a vale of green. But all is wet, so we bumb around thinking maybe we can will the rock dry, but then head to an indoor climbing gym to play around for a bit. Sequency climbs and a wicked roof with doable climbs finished off the afternoon. Elizabeth came and joined, and I jumped around with rosa on the bouldering mats for a while, tumbling, headstands, and flopping down like fishes!

Adam's parents generously offered their home to us so we showed up and took over the kitchen, then slept on the floors and the extra bed. Thanks! Unfortunately we had a lazy morning, and with dodgy weather continuing in the wanaka area decided to head south even though starting late. Meeting up with Juan, we all pile into Elizabeth's car for the true road trip. Queenstown and brief refuel on the famous fergburgers. Then many rainbows en route to Te Anau. On the Milford road a kiwi brings smiles to faces, and we stop often for photos.

The noses plastered to windows soon become detached from jaws as mountain rear up and sheer granite walls with clinging green trees and vegetation hem us in on the road. Add the glowing orange of a sunset on the peaks and it's no wonder we didnt make it into the sound itself until after dark. We made for the blue duck for some tasty pub chips, a couple a pints, and some games of foosball followed by a round of pool.

We found a little back road (like we weren't on one already! milford is a total dead end) and set up camp. We cooked a meal while rosa - exhausted - clung to juan, but refused to sleep. I then took on the task of feeding juan to chuckles and big smiles. The yummy rice satisfied us as we gazed at the cloudless stars above. Tired form travel it was time to sleep: Liz and rosa in the car with juan (who didn't have a sleeping bag), James to his tent, and I opted to forgo the tent and bivy wrapped up in my tarp. I found a soft grassy spot to lay me down, and gazed up into the stars. I managed one shooting star before sleep overpowered me and I was gone.

Morning dawned with speckles of condensation clinging to the tarp about me. My tung snaked out and captured the refreshing purity of dawn. So the south I saw rosy peaks, and I softly called James, reminding him of his dawn intentions should he wish to go photograph. I gazed up wards at the steep granite, a waking moment of the night was recalled. An awareness of bright light, hazy awakening, and amazed realizaton that a rising moon had illuminated that granite wall to feel like day, but I had slept on. Now another celestial body rose, bathing orange that hard grey stone, throwing warm roses on white snows.

bliss don't last long, though in the moment it was eternity. As all stirred and broke fast the car was tested and would not start. We walked into the small facilities of Milford for a jump and some fluid. but the car was toast. James' AA membership was used to call in a tow, and we milled about Milford. No cool hikes but we had clear blue skies and amazing views of mitre peak! The tow guy from Te Anua (2 hrs away) got the car running, but it wouldn't idle, so he had to give us a tow. Only three could fit in the truck, so James and I packed our things and hit the road to hitch out.

Oddly enough a mobile home gave us a lift! almost never happens. Ridiculous people though, drove 4 hrs along with their mates in a separate van to see Milford for just an hour. Te Anau was restless n awkward. we didn't want to be there and james felt pressure to get back to christchurch and arrange some job interviews. The two of us mulled over it all at the pub and decided to split in the morning for our car and christchurch. And we did, after a long wait on the road we got a hitch to Queenstown and then three more to get us to Wanaka and the car. 4 hours after that we arrived in christchurch, 10pm tired from driving and having had an interesting preview of Milford sound...